I returned to Andalusia in April for a fiesta in Canjáyar where Luisa my translator was the Pregonera, who kicks off the celebrations by giving a speech in honour of the village. Among the many events was a multi chess match in the village square, in which a Romanian master simultaneously and nonchalantly played about fifteen opponents including me, and of course beat us all. Since my birthday happened at the time, whenever the brass band marched round the narrow streets or when rockets were fired off, at the rate of several hundred per day, I could fantasise that there was some connection - little knowing that in America, on National Public Radio, Garrison Keillor actually was celebrating my birthday in his Writers Almanac programme, to my great surprise: http://writersalmanac.publicradio.org/docs/04_04_19.htm
The high-explosive rockets are fired from a launching pad clipped to the arm, yet strangely I noticed no amputees from previous fiestas. The thunder of explosions rolled around the mountains. An avalanche blocked the main road, though probably due to unaccustomed rain. Bicycle riders competed to snatch ribbons from an overhead wire; beauty queens were crowned; floats paraded bearing religious relics and flowers. The Valle de Andarax school gave me a beautiful edition of El Ingenioso Hidalgo Don Quijote de la Mancha because I'd done a talk there on my previous visit. Along the river Andarax snow-melt water ran quite vigorously, although to my English eyes the Andarax was still only a little stream; now at least it was visible. I discovered barrachilla, a very warming mix of Malaga and some anis, perfect for breakfast at the Miapolo café-bar if you have a cold. ¡Viva Canjáyar!